Baltic Adventure

This was a trip that I most wanted. And this was a trip that almost did not happen. Everything that could go wrong, did. It was like the devil conspiring to make this NOT happen. But I’d like to think that I had a lot of good karma brownie points that eventually converted the googly that life had thrown at me, into a bouncer which I hit for a sixer that went out of the stadium! Due to delays with the Schengen visa, I had not received my passport even the morning prior to the day I was to fly out. I had sent several persuading mails to the Lithuanian Schengen embassy telling them how excited I was to visit their country and pleaded with them to grant me the visa, and send my passport soon. I don’t know why but I knew I would make it to this trip. I got my passport just 24 hours before I was to leave and just before I was going to cancel my flight tickets! Then I almost missed my connecting flight at Warsaw. Finally I reached Estonia. But my luggage didn’t. Next morning I got the luggage just in time before the tour started! And later I sprained my ankle so bad, I thought that was the end of the tour, but several home remedies did the trick and I was back on my feet quite literally the next day!. I am a survivor, a fighter, and a stubborn one at that. I make the most of my life. At least I try to. Like they say, when life gives me lemons, I make lemonade!

So, here’s why I was so very excited about this trip. It was a 1200 Km motorcycle riding trip across the 3 Baltic countries of Estonia, Latvia and Lithuania! Before you pickup the phone to call me, let me tell you that I was not riding, but was a pillion rider with Kabir, the tour lead. Nevertheless, I was super excited about a riding tour. I have done a few car driving trips, but this was the first on a motorcycle. The difference between a car and a motorcycle is the difference between a regular movie and a 3D movie in IMAX! You feel you are in the middle of an action movie on a motorbike. A cocktail of hormones get released like dopamine, oxytocin, endorphin and of course an overdose of adrenaline! It gives you a high like no drug can. It’s exciting, there’s a deep fire in your belly and at the same time gives you a zen like feeling. If I felt this way, you can imagine what the riders felt! It must have been an absolutely exhilarating experience. And I know it because I used to ride a motorbike for a short time. The pandemic made me give it up and I really feel terrible I could not ride. But well, I did the next best thing which is ride pillion.

We started the tour at Tallinn, the capital of Estonia, the northern most Baltic country, just below Finland. We all met on Day 0 and got the super bikes – there were 3 BMW GS 1200 bikes and 4 Yamaha 700 Tracers. Both powerful mean looking beasts! There were 6 men, 2 women both pillion riders and the tour lead. 3 of the men were cousins from Delhi whom I named the Banga boys (though one was not a Banga but related to them). A couple from Hubli, one guy from Chennai, one from Pune, me from Bangalore and the tour guide from Pune. On day 1 we started our ride from the Estonian capital Tallinn to the university town Tartu. Of course we were all geared up – helmet, riding jacket, knee guards and gloves. Since it was the first day, everyone was kinda getting used to the new bikes. We stopped at Jagala waterfall and then stopped for coffee at the northern most point of the Baltic states – Vinistu. Then we stopped at Lake Piepus which was so beautiful and scenic, the cameras were on overdrive! We got many lovely shots there and finally reached Tartu. The roads were great and driving on the countryside was beautiful. There were lovely houses, each with a lawn and a vibrant garden. Trampolines are very popular there and I saw many gardens with a trampoline. Most houses had a small annexe with a sauna. Since winters are very cold, saunas are very popular in the Baltic states. Most houses also had a swing or a slide. The houses were quaint and beautiful, all similar in style. The parks and lakes along the way were also very charming. In fact there was beauty all around.

The next day we were riding from Tartu to the Latvian capital Riga and it started raining. Not just raining but pouring. And it was so thrilling to ride in the rains. We went on a max speed of 150 kmph at one time and my heart was beating rapidly! It was so thrilling. There was so much wind that when I had to move my head from left to right, there was so much resistance, I had to make an effort to move my head! I opened the visor for a while and the rain drops hit me like pin pricks. But the smell of wet earth was so intoxicating and the cold wind blowing on my face made me come alive. We stopped by at a quaint little cafe and the hot chocolate and cake were a blessing after riding in the rains. We had another stop at the Estonian and Latvian border and did a little celebratory dance there. Finally reached Riga in the evening and the next day we spent at this absolutely magnificent city. The day after we rode to the town of Klaipeda. On the way, Kabir had to stop for a while so when we started again we had to speed up to catch up with the gang. And Kabir throttled to a top speed of 176 kmph! Whoa that was the fastest I have gone on a motorbike. Or even a car I think. I was scared and excited at the same time. My heart was in my mouth and I was so focused, no amount of meditation has ever got me that focused! And when he came back to the speed limit, I heaved a sigh of relief that all was well and we were still in one piece! I will not forget that thrilling moment for a long time! The most beautiful ride of the trip for me was the ride from the city of Klaipeda to the Curonian Spit. We went on to a ferry from the city to the Curonian Spit and then rode through small fishing villages skirting the Baltic sea. Such beautiful villages and winding roads with pine trees on both sides. I did not want to leave the place. It was so utterly beautiful. There were so many yachts and sail boats on the sea, very relaxed and laid back, people on their bicycles, children hopping about, it was a typical European holiday town. Loved it! We then rode from Klaipeda to Kaunas and then to Vilnius the capital of Lithuania.

We had guided walking tours in each of the capital cities – Tallinn, Riga and Vilnius. All of them very charming, but in terms of the architecture, I liked Riga the most. Each city had an old town square with lots of historical buildings each of which looked like a piece of art. And like any European town, there were cobble stoned streets lined with open air cafes and restaurants. Since they have very few months of summer and good weather, it seemed every single person was out on the streets, enjoying a coffee or drink or a meal. It was like a celebration of life. Europeans sure know how to live a good life. The parks had people lazing around, reading a book, or just admiring the lake in the park with children shooing away the pigeons, couples having a romantic time and families just generally spending time together. There was a general sense of cheerfulness all around. I cannot explain in words how beautiful it was, you have to go there and experience it for yourself. The population of all the 3 countries is very less. Estonia has about 1.4 million people, less than half a million of whom lived in and around the capital Tallinn. In comparison, Bangalore city alone has 12 million people! Each country has their own language. The Estonian language is similar to the Finnish though genetically Estonians are very close to Latvians. Riga is the most populous city though Vilnius is geographically the biggest. Vilnius is the party capital of the Baltics with a roaring night life and many watering holes. Klaipeda is a very charming town with a river cutting through the town and lots of music dance and lovely restaurants on the boardwalk. Albert street in Riga has several Art Nouveau buildings with motifs inspired from nature, sensual ornamentation, extensive use of arches and curves – you just cant stop admiring them. Estonia has only 10 % believers and the rest are atheists. Latvia has maybe 20% believers mostly Lutherans, but Lithuania is religious with 80% believers, mostly Catholics. There are so many old churches in Vilnius, some gothic some baroque, some not looking like a church at all. But all very magnificent. I happened to attend Sunday mass in a few of them and enjoyed the hymns and gospel kind of music. All the Baltic countries have a shared history with German and Russian occupation. Also, we saw support for Ukraine in all 3 countries with Ukranian blue and yellow flags everywhere.

In Riga, we went to a Motor museum which had so many antique cars. Basically it was like a history lesson in cars and motorcycles. From the very first cars to the latest ones, the museum had them all. Rolls Royce, BMW, Porsche, Ford, Audi, Volkswagen, Mercedes you name it, it was there. The royal hand made limited edition signature cars to the factory made fire engines and trucks. Luxury and necessity sitting side by side. It was a fabulous museum, worth a visit. In Lithuania we also visited an underground Soviet missile base from cold war times. The bunkers are maintained as is from the olden days and converted into a museum. From the surface one cannot make out that there would be a missile base underneath. The missile pit was made with so much precision and the whole thing was such a well kept secret. Just before we entered Vilnius we went to the Trakai island castle and the surroundings were absolutely breathtaking! The lake was so enchanting, with so many people boating lazily and soaking in the warmth of the sun. The houses nearby had apple orchards and life was moving at a slow lazy but charming pace. Another place I just did not feel like leaving! I would love to go back here some day and spend a lazy week.

Apart from riding, the most adventurous activity we did was on the last day in Vilnius. We fired 3 different actual military guns and rifles with live ammo! Steyr AUG, HK416 and American Sig Sauer automatic. We filled the magazine with bullets, loaded the gun with the magazine, aimed at a metal target and pulled the trigger. The shell flew out of the right side and the bullet hit the mark with a loud clank! What a high that gave me! In the first gun we had 10 bullets and the second and third had 5 each. I was able to hit every single one on the target. The noise was loud and we had to wear ear plugs to avoid being stunned by the noise. Next we drove a military tank! Yes that’s right, an actual military tank. This was a British tank from 1976. There is an accelerator and two break sticks, one for the left side and one for the right side. It was so cool to sit in the driver’s pit and ride down a dirt road, maneuvering the tank and going uphill and downhill. There were several other military artillery and weapons that we took pictures with, looking all macho and powerful!

Travel is not just about the places and beautiful destinations but also the people and the memories you create together. And we were a fun bunch of people with varied interests with a common passion for riding. And there is a unique kind of brotherhood with people who ride together and explore together. Sonali was the only other woman and both us sat in the van (that carried our luggage and was in the lead with the Estonian Marco at the wheel) a couple of times for a break so I had a nice connect with her. Her husband Dharam is an experienced and avid biker so everyone looked up to him and took tips from him. Deepak from Chennai was usually by himself. Abhishek with his quirky antics and great photography skills and Kabir the tour lead were both from Pune. And then there were the Banga boys the 3 cousins, two of whom were from Delhi – Amit Banga and Sandeep Banga and one from Florida – Sumit Nagpal. I had loads of fun with them and hung out mostly with them. We shared so many meals, hearty laughs, interesting conversations and debates on topics ranging from politics to sustainability and business ideas to the war in Ukraine. We were out till late night enjoying the European summer and wine! We also went dancing one evening. Amit and Sumit have truck loads of energy and can be the last men on the floor! My holiday was that much more fun and interesting because of these two and I have so many fond memories with them. Thank you guys! You were awesome! And lastly, Marco the van driver was so much fun with a good sense of humor and made for great company, answering all our weird questions and giving interesting tidbits about the Baltics.

I am back home now and already preparing for my next adventure! Watch out for the next blog, ladies and gentlemen!

Trip notes:

I did this trip with MotoRover who organize motorcycle riding and car driving trips in several countries. This trip had good hotels, absolutely lovely lunch stops and good tour guides – basically a very well curated and planned trip. Lunches are included on all riding days and dinners are on your own which gives free time for you to do things you like. I highly recommend them. In fact I want to do a car driving trip in Kyrgyztaan where we drive cars in the snow. Check out their tours here – https://www.motorover.in

The tour was for 6 days and 7 nights. But I stayed back an extra day for the shooting and tank riding experience which were not part of the tour. On day 0, they also organized a dinner which was great so we could all get to know each other.